How to Remove Permanent Marker (Sharpie) from Whiteboards, Plastic, Clothes, Walls and Skin

A permanent marker is a bottle of alcohol with color and glue dissolved in it. The alcohol evaporates in seconds and leaves the color locked in a thin film of resin, which is exactly why water and soap barely touch it. The trick to getting it off is to give the ink back the kind of solvent it was made with, on surfaces that can take it.

This guide explains what is actually in a Sharpie, why isopropyl alcohol lifts it, and the method that works on each surface: whiteboards, glass, plastic, clothes, walls, wood, car paint and skin. We sell the solvent at the center of it, from Isopropyl Alcohol 99% Technical Grade to Isopropyl Alcohol 70% USP Grade, so we have been just as careful to say where alcohol is the wrong answer.

Last reviewed 11 November 2026 against the sources cited below. This is a practical cleaning and chemistry guide, not medical, legal or regulatory advice. If ink or solvent gets in an eye or is swallowed, contact Poison Help at 1-800-222-1222. How we researched it is set out at the end.

What is in permanent marker ink, and why is it so hard to remove?

Permanent marker ink is a blend of alcohols carrying dyes and a resin binder, and the resin is what makes it “permanent”. Newell Brands’ safety data sheets for Sharpie core markers list the solvents as n-propanol (25 to 50%), n-butanol and diacetone alcohol (10 to 25% each), with dyes and pigments. BIC’s Mark-It safety data sheet is the one consumer marker sheet we found that names its binder: a polyvinyl butyral resin, carried in mostly ethyl alcohol. Sharpie does not disclose its resin; Sanford’s own marker patent lists phenolic, rosin, ketone, terpene and acrylic resin families as suitable.

Sharpie’s own FAQ explains the design in one line: “Resins or surfactants give the ink the ability to adhere to various surfaces.” It defines a permanent marker as one that adheres to most surfaces and is water resistant. So the mark you are looking at is a film of color-loaded resin that water was designed not to move.

How permanent it is depends on what you wrote on. On glass, glazed tile, metal or a whiteboard, the ink dries as a thin film sitting on top of the surface. On paper, fabric, raw wood or flat paint, the alcohols wick the dye and resin into the fibers before they evaporate. Sharpie itself says a dye-based mark on a nonporous surface outdoors will be gone “in perhaps three to four months”, while on paper or canvas indoors it lasts years. That split decides almost everything below: on hard, sealed surfaces the ink comes off; in porous ones it may not come out completely.

Why does isopropyl alcohol remove permanent marker?

Isopropyl alcohol removes permanent marker because the ink was laid down from alcohols, so a similar alcohol can redissolve the dried resin and dye and let a cloth carry them away. The marker’s own solvent system is n-propanol, n-butanol and diacetone alcohol. Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol, CAS 67-63-0) is a close chemical cousin of n-propanol, the main solvent in the ink.

Water is the opposite case. The resins used in marker ink are chosen because they resist water, which is why a wet sponge smears a fresh mark and then stops doing anything at all. That points to the practical difference between strengths. 70% isopropyl alcohol is roughly 30% water; 91% and 99% carry far less. On glass, glazed tile and bare metal, the stronger grades should redissolve the ink film more readily for that reason. That is chemistry reasoning, not a published head-to-head test, and we found no study comparing strengths on marker ink.

There are also places where stronger is worse. Herman Miller’s whiteboard care sheet says “A maximum 70% isopropyl alcohol solution may be used” for ghosting and warns that the stronger solution temporarily softens the writing surface, so the board should dry overnight. Acrylic makers go further and allow only alcohol diluted to around 30%. So the rule of thumb is simple: 91% or 99% for glass, ceramic, metal and tough plastics; 70% or a dilution for coated boards, fabric and anything delicate.

The short version: permanent marker is alcohol-borne color locked in resin. Give it back an alcohol and a hard surface lets it go; a porous surface may keep some of it for good.

How do you get permanent marker off a whiteboard?

The fastest way to get permanent marker off a whiteboard is to write over it with a dry-erase marker and wipe both inks off together. EXPO, the dry-erase brand, gives the method directly: “Making sure the permanent ink has totally dried, simply write over whatever was scribbled with a dry erase marker.” It says the dry-erase color does not need to match, but it should be as dark as the mark you are removing. Herman Miller gives the same instruction for its boards: trace over the mark, then immediately wipe off both inks.

Why it works: “Dry erase ink contains pigments and release agents,” EXPO explains, and the release agents stop the pigment from sticking to the board. The fresh solvent in the dry-erase marker softens the dried permanent ink, and the release agent keeps the mixture from bonding back down, so the eraser lifts both. EXPO’s own explanation credits “a non-polar solvent”, but its safety sheets list alcohols or ketone and ester solvents, so we would not lean on that part.

How do you get Sharpie off glass, tile, metal and hard plastic?

On glass, glazed tile, porcelain, bare metal and most hard plastics, dab the mark with a cloth dampened in 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol, give it a few seconds to soften, and wipe it away with a clean part of the cloth. These surfaces do not absorb the ink, so the dried film lifts off whole. The Canadian Conservation Institute notes that glass tolerates strong solvents such as acetone without risk, so isopropyl alcohol is a comfortable choice there.

Laminate countertops are in the same group. Formica says ink marks from felt-tip pens can be removed from its laminate “with a suitable solvent (e.g. methylated spirits, acetone, etc.) on a clean cloth”, and lists rubbing alcohol among its tough-stain cleansers. Two exceptions in Formica’s own guidance: try solvents on a scrap first on its specialty finishes, and do not use solvents on products with a polyurethane lacquer finish.

Plastics need a moment’s thought. Polyethylene and polypropylene (storage bins, coolers, cutting boards) and rigid PVC rate “good” against alcohols in plastics resistance charts. Covestro rates its polycarbonate resistant to pure isopropanol, though parts under stress can still craze, so test a hidden edge. Acrylic, sold as Plexiglas or ACRYLITE, is the one to be careful with; it gets its own row in the surface table below.

How do you remove permanent marker from clothes and fabric?

To remove permanent marker from clothes, lay the stain face down on paper towels and dab 70% isopropyl alcohol onto the back of the stain, so the ink is pushed out into the towels instead of deeper into the fabric. Sharpie’s stain FAQ gives the same layout: lay the article face down on paper towels or a clean white cloth and “apply stain removal solution to underside of stain so that stain can be removed from the surface instead of pushing it through the fabric.” Replace the towels as they pick up color.

Set your expectations honestly. The Kentucky guide lists felt-tip permanent ink under stains that “may not come out”, and Sharpie itself says testing first is always recommended because many variables are involved. Fresh marks on synthetic fabrics often release well; old marks on cotton may leave a shadow. Sharpie also points customers to a dedicated ink stain remover for clothing, and a dry cleaner is the right call for silk, wool and anything labeled dry-clean only.

How do you get permanent marker off skin?

To get permanent marker off skin, wash it gently with soap and water and let the rest wear off; it fades on its own in a few days. That is the official line, and it is different from most of the advice online. Sharpie’s safety data sheet labels the marker “Not for use on skin” and gives skin first aid as soap and water. The Northern New England Poison Center is candid that “Soap and water often do not help remove the ink, but the ink will wear off over time,” and says to wash gently because scrubbing can be more irritating than the marker. Its estimate is 2 to 3 days.

For children the guidance is firmer. The Illinois Poison Center says: “Do not attempt to use chemicals or harsh cleaning products to remove ink stains from your child’s skin.” So no alcohol, acetone or nail polish remover on a child, however tempting before school photos.

Many adults do wipe marker off their own hands with a little alcohol. If you do, know what you are using: isopropyl alcohol is a solvent, and its safety data sheets warn that repeated exposure may cause skin dryness or cracking. Use a small amount on intact skin only, keep it well away from the eyes, face and any cuts, then wash with soap and water. Nothing on this page is skin care, and if ink gets in an eye, rinse with warm water for 15 minutes and call Poison Help at 1-800-222-1222, as the Northern New England Poison Center advises.

Which surfaces can isopropyl alcohol damage?

Isopropyl alcohol can damage shellac and French-polished wood, full-strength alcohol can craze acrylic, and strong alcohol can soften whiteboard coatings, fade some fabric dyes and dull painted finishes. Before you reach for 99% on anything other than glass, ceramic or bare metal, check the row for your surface here.

Sources for each row are listed at the end of this article. “Our advice” marks practical suggestions with no published test behind them.

Walls

Painted walls are the hardest case, because flat and eggshell latex paint is porous. Benjamin Moore warns that heavy-duty cleaners “contain strong solvents that can damage the finish.” Dunn-Edwards is blunter: “It is not always possible to wash off all stains (e.g., permanent markers),” and it says solvent cleaners will likely cause some damage to the finish. Its fix for marker that stays is a stain-blocking primer before repainting, because marker can bleed through ordinary paint. Start with a damp sponge and mild soap, try isopropyl alcohol only on a test patch in a closet corner, and accept that a primer may be the real answer.

Car paint

We found no carmaker or paint-maker guidance on alcohol and factory clear coat. Detailers commonly use a heavily diluted isopropyl alcohol wipe as a panel prep, and Kelley Blue Book suggests about 1 part 70% to 3 parts water, which works out to roughly 18% alcohol. Use that, keep contact short, wash the panel afterwards and re-apply wax. Do not put neat 99% or acetone on paint.

Do hairspray, Magic Eraser, toothpaste, WD-40 or bleach remove permanent marker?

Most household hacks for permanent marker work, when they work, for one of two reasons: they contain a solvent, or they are abrasive. Knowing which explains where each one fails.

Which isopropyl alcohol is best for removing permanent marker?

For most permanent marker jobs, 91% or 99% isopropyl alcohol is the best choice on hard, sealed surfaces, and 70% is the better choice for whiteboards, fabric and anything delicate. Here is how our grades map to the methods above.

• Isopropyl Alcohol 99% Technical Grade: the hard-surface workhorse for glass, tile, metal and laminate. It is also sold in a quart spray bottle, which makes dampening a cloth easy and keeps you from flooding a surface.
• Isopropyl Alcohol 91% USP Grade: nearly as strong, for the same hard-surface jobs.
• Isopropyl Alcohol 70% USP Grade: the strength Herman Miller caps whiteboards at and the gentler choice for fabric. It evaporates more slowly, which gives you more blotting time.
• Isopropyl Alcohol 99.9% ACS Reagent Grade: a laboratory and electronics grade. It works on marker, but you are paying for purity this job does not need.

You can also dilute down instead of buying two strengths. Seven parts 99% to three parts water gives roughly 70%; three parts 99% to seven parts water gives roughly 30% for acrylic. Our guide to making 70% isopropyl alcohol from 99% shows the math, and 70% vs 91% vs 99% isopropyl alcohol covers when each strength earns its place. If you are wondering whether the bottle under the sink is the same thing, see is rubbing alcohol the same as isopropyl alcohol.

Is isopropyl alcohol safe to use for cleaning?

Isopropyl alcohol is a common cleaning solvent, but it is highly flammable and its vapor builds up in small rooms, so use it with ventilation, away from flames, and never mixed with bleach. Pure isopropyl alcohol has a flash point of about 12 °C (53 °F), per the NIOSH Pocket Guide and Fisher Scientific’s safety data sheet. 70% solutions are still highly flammable; their published flash points sit around room temperature or below.

• Ventilate. OSHA’s workplace limit for isopropyl alcohol vapor is 400 ppm averaged over a shift. At home, that means an open window and short jobs, not a sealed bathroom.
• No flames or sparks. Keep it away from pilot lights, candles, cigarettes and hot tools until the surface is dry.
• Gloves. For longer jobs, nitrile gloves are a good choice: Ansell’s chemical resistance guide rates nitrile excellent against isopropyl alcohol.
• Never mix with bleach. “Rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl alcohol) – Forms chloroform,” warns New Jersey’s Department of Health.
• Keep it labeled and out of reach. Isopropyl alcohol looks like water. See what happens if you drink rubbing alcohol for why that matters, and does isopropyl alcohol expire for storage.